Morten Schakenda is the man who gave up the gourmet restaurants of the capital to start a bakery in Lom. Now the concept stands just as firmly as its riverside premises, and its reputation has spread far beyond its mountain home.
t is a boiling hot summer afternoon, and we are sitting at one of the outdoor tables with a cup of coffee and the genial baker. What is the secret to his success, we wonder.
“There’s no secret,” Morten says. “Being innovative can also mean going backwards.”
“Use proper ingredients. What you bake is always a mixture, the difference comes from what you put in the mixture. There’s a huge difference in taste between margarine and butter, or from using less yeast and leaving it to prove for longer.”
any people come here solely for the bread, and although the bakery has already been open for hours, there’s still a queue stretching through the door. It doesn’t slow down until September.
“People know about us, and that’s great, but the bakery isn’t just a tourist gimmick,” Morten insists. “We have to be a plus factor for the people of Lom; everyone should be able to buy healthy bread and cakes here all year round. That’s why we don’t charge exorbitant prices. Perhaps we’re a little too inexpensive? At any rate, we’re generous.”
But in the summertime, like now, it is not just bread, cinnamon whirls, currant buns and other cakes that tempt the visitor. Morten also runs a popular outdoor café during the high season. Beyond the terrace tumbles the fast-flowing river that cuts through Lom. And all around us guests are tucking into hamburgers, pizzas and sandwiches: quality fast-food indeed.
he delicious smell of baking stretches all the way out to the car park, and when Morten returns to his work, we approach the counter to order our own food. Here, according to the lady pizza chef, you can have pizza with crème fraiche instead of tomato sauce, chopped ham, oregano, grated lemon zest, cheese and ‘lots of love’. We watch as the two pizza chefs prepare our pizzas. When they are done, we take them back to our table in the shade to enjoy with a cold beer. The white pizza is our favourite, but the hamburger is a big hit, too.